Destinations

Insider’s Guide: Salem

The city of Salem, located on Massachusetts’ North Shore, is a fun, quirky seaside town. It’s a city with a rich maritime and literary history, situated in a scenic location overlooking Massachusetts Bay.

Often referred to as “The Witch City”, Salem is most famous for its role in the witch trials of 1692-1693, during which 20 people were executed under suspicion of witchcraft. Whether from reading Arthur Miller’s play The Crucible or from watching the Halloween favorite Hocus Pocus – both of which are set in Salem – chances are good that you’ve heard of Salem’s witchy past.

Given the city’s history, October is undeniably the most popular time to visit. If you’re traveling to Salem for Halloween, check out the Salem Haunted Happenings website for up-to-date info on events taking place. Many locals will tell you to avoid the fall as it does get very busy and can be tough to get around. But no matter what time of year you visit, Salem offers a ton to do, including many non-witch related attractions, amazing restaurants, cute shops, a brewery, a cider house and more. With so many options, it can be hard to decide where to go and what to visit first. Read on for my recommendations on things to do, see and experience while in Salem!

Views of the city of Salem, MA

Getting to Salem

Salem is only about a 45 minute drive from Boston, but you really don’t need a car to get around. Parking can be expensive, and hard to come by, especially in October. If traveling from the Boston area, check out public transit options, especially during the busy fall months. The MBTA offers commuter rail service to Salem out of Boston’s North Station, which only takes about 30 minutes. In the summer and fall, Boston Harbor Cruises also operates the Salem Ferry, offering service from Boston’s Long Wharf to the Salem Ferry Center.

Salem is a pedestrian-friendly city (though you’ll definitely want to wear comfortable shoes due to the many cobblestone streets). Similar to the Freedom Trail in Boston, visitors can walk Salem’s Heritage Trail, a red line painted across the city connecting all of Salem’s most important sites. If you’re not in the mood to hoof it, you can also take advantage of the Salem Trolley. The Trolley offers a narrated one-hour tour, as well as hop-on/hop-off shuttle service throughout the city.

Salem’s Witchy History

When visiting Salem, learning about the witch trials is almost inevitable. If you’re unfamiliar with what transpired, the best place to start is the Salem Witch Museum and then go from there.

The Salem Witch Museum.

Salem Witch Museum

19 1/2 N Washington Square, Salem, MA 01970

Instead of wandering around through exhibits, the Salem Witch Museum takes you through a narrated presentation. Featuring 13 life-sized sets, you’ll be guided through the events of the Salem witch hunt of 1692. After, you’ll enter an informative exhibit where a guide discusses the history of witchcraft and its evolving perception throughout history. The museum takes about 45 minutes to complete, leaving you with a good understanding of the events that took place. The museum is open daily from 10am to 5pm, with extended hours during the month of October. Admission is $12 for adults, $10.50 for seniors and $9 for children.

The Witch House

310 Essex Street, Salem, MA 01970

Another spot to visit if you’re interested in the history of the time period is The Witch House. The home of Judge Jonathan Corwin, one of the judges who presided over the witch trials, it is the only original structure still standing in Salem with ties to the witch hunt. Tours are offered regularly, and provide deeper insight into the people involved in the trials, while also exploring America’s colonial heritage. The Witch House is open daily March 15-Nov. 15 from 10am to 5pm, and open Thursday-Sunday in the winter from 12pm to 4pm. You have the option to take a guided tour or a self guided tour, with prices ranging accordingly per the website.

The Salem Witch Trials Memorial.

The Salem Witch Trials Memorial

24 Liberty Street, Salem, MA 01970

Contrary to popular belief, there were no witches burned at the stake in Salem (or anywhere else in the colonies). Instead, 19 of those convicted were hanged, and one was pressed to death under heavy stones for refusing to plead. To pay homage to those who lost their lives, The Salem Witch Trials Memorial was built in 1992 in remembrance of the 300th anniversary of the events. The memorial consists of granite stone benches etched with the victims names, along with the date and manner of their execution. A somber place, it’s a touching reminder of this dark period of history. Located directly next to The Burying Point, the oldest cemetery in Salem, you can walk over to see historic graves, including one of a Mayflower Pilgrim and one of the Salem Witch Trial judges. 

Best Salem Activities

But witch history is certainly not all that Salem has to offer. From renowned art collections, to literary points of interest, to bakeries, shops and restaurants, Salem appeals to diverse tastes and interests – and truly has something for everyone.

Maritime Art collection at the Peabody Essex Museum.

The Peabody Essex Museum

161 Essex Street, Salem, MA 01970

Having worked in the arts for several years, I love coming up to Salem to visit the Peabody Essex Museum. Home to one of the largest collections of Asian Art in the United States, the Peabody Essex Museum also houses a large collection of Maritime Art, along with American Decorative Art. And they regularly host traveling exhibitions. Right now, guests can experience Empresses of China’s Forbidden City, which runs through February 10, 2019, and examines the stories of imperial women in China’s Qing Dynasty. Recent past traveling exhibitions have included Sally Mann: A Thousand Crossings (which ran through September 2018) and Georgia O’Keefe: Art, Image, Style (which ran through April 2018). Open Tuesdays through Sundays, admission is $20 for adults. Children 16 and under visit for free.

Colonial gardens at The House of the Seven Gables.

The House of the Seven Gables

115 Derby Street, Salem, MA 01970

Bibliophiles will enjoy the opportunity to visit the setting of Nathaniel Hawthorne’s novel, The House of the Seven Gables. A National Historic Landmark, the seaside mansion was built in 1668 for Captain John Turner I. Not only can you take a guided tour of the mansion (including a climb up the famous hidden staircase), but you can also visit Hawthorne’s birthplace, which was moved onto the campus from its original location on Union Street in 1958. I love walking around the Colonial Revival seaside gardens (which are breathtaking the spring and summer months), as well as the Hooper-Hathaway House. It’s also a great place to sit for a while and enjoy views of Salem Harbor. See the website for hours, as they change seasonally. Admission prices are $16 for adults, $13 for children ages 13-18, $11 for children ages 5-12 and free for children under 5 years old.

Best Salem Restaurants

Salem has become quite a foodie destination in its own right. The city offers a variety of fabulous restaurants ranging from the seafood spots on Pickering Wharf, to gourmet pizza and Asian Street food. Some of my favorites are included below, and Food & Wine magazine just did a feature on Salem restaurants for some other ideas as well!

Finz

86 Wharf Street, Salem, MA 01970

One of Salem’s premier seafood restaurants, Finz recently just moved into its new location overlooking Salem Harbor. With a focus on seasonal, sustainable seafood, Finz offers a raw bar and sushi bar, in addition to their traditional menu items. They always have a variety of fresh fish on offer to be grilled and prepared to your liking. Other menu standouts include the Lobster Roll, Street Corn Shrimp appetizer, Seafood Paella and Baja Fish Tacos. The restaurant offers a full bar with local beers, a nice wine selection and inventive, seasonal cocktails. The interior has a nautical feel, with many tables overlooking the harbor, and a 40-person wrap-around bar.

Sea Level Oyster Bar

94 Wharf St, Salem, MA 01970

Just across the way, but a bit more casual than its counterpoint Finz, Sea Level Oyster Bar offers a great spot on the water to grab a bite or a drink. Their second story outdoor deck offers great views of the wharf and harbor, and their bar offers a great craft beer list, along with fun seasonal cocktails. Menu standouts include the Seal Level Burger (topped with crispy fried clams), the Lobster Roll (served hot with butter or cold with mayo), Lobster Mac and Cheese and the Brown Butter Shrimp Scampi. They also offer a variety of fried and grilled seafood, along with pizzas, burgers, salads and more.

Kokeshi

41 Lafayette St, Salem, MA 01970

Inspired by Asian Street Food, Kokeshi is relatively new addition to Salem and one of the most unique offerings in the city. With a modern, hip, industrial interior, the restaurant offers communal tables in a space that looks like it could have previously been a garage or factory. Menu standouts include the Steamed Pork Buns (which melt in your mouth), the Slow Roasted Pork Belly and the Colonel Sanders bowl, featuring fried chicken in a spicy pork broth. Other offerings to check out include ramen, Udon, rice bowls and ahi tuna poke.

Bambolina

288 Derby St, Salem, MA 01970

One of the best spots for pizza in Salem, this restaurant offers handcrafted, wood-fired, individual-sized “Neo-Neapolitan” style pizzas in a cozy, rustic setting.  To start, try the Grilled Caesar or the Zucchini “Ceviche”. The traditional Margherita pizza is always my favorite, but another great option is the Molti Cacio (featuring fresh and smoked mozzarella, burrata, gorgonzola and pecorino romano). Two other favorites include the Soppresta and the Forest Mushroom with truffle oil. All pizzas come with delicious homemade chili oil to sprinkle on top. Bambolina’s interior is cute and rustic with exposed brick and wooden beams. They offer a large local beer list, as well as wines by the glass or the bottle. A great spot for a night out.

Best Salem Shops/Bakeries

The Cheese Shop of Salem

45 Lafayette Street, Salem, MA 01970

I have a few friends who make the trip up to Salem from Boston specifically to visit The Cheese Shop of Salem. It’s that good. They offer a vast selection of gourmet cheeses, which you can sample for free. They also offer a wonderful selection of wine, local craft beer and cider, and other gourmet foods. Carefully curated, the shop hand selects all of its offerings and it shows. The staff is always incredibly friendly and helpful, and everyone who works there is very knowledgeable about cheese. They often have free tastings of wine or beer (which you can see on their website) and they also offer a variety of classes. And the best part? They offer an Epic Grilled Cheese pop-up on Saturdays, which is out of this world (Check out their Instagram page at @thecheeseshopofsalem to see for yourself!)

Kouign Amman at A&J King.

A & J King Artisan Bakers

Two locations: 48 Central Street and 139 Boston Street

If you like fresh bread and pastries, you need to pop into A&J King when in Salem. Known for their artisan breads, they also make incredible sweets and pastries, along with a full sandwich menu. They almost always have baguettes and Ciabattas available, which are incredible to accompany some cheese and meat. While I’ve had the chance to sample a few of their pastries, including the molasses cookie and the Pain Au Chocolat, my hands down favorite is the Kouign Amman. Made with croissant dough, it has layers of butter and sugar baked within. And it is amazing. (If you go, get one. You can thank me later.) They also offer a variety of fresh made sandwiches, which come with a bag of chips and a pickle. Well worth a visit!

Ye Olde Pepper Candy Companie

122 Derby Street, Salem, MA 01970

If you happen to visit The House of the Seven Gables, make sure to also pop directly across the street to stop into Ye Olde Pepper Candy Companie, America’s oldest candy company. As 4th generation candy makers, they specialize in old fashioned candies – including the famous Salem Gibralters and Blackjacks. They also offer a variety of chocolates, fudge, salt water taffy, caramel corn and seasonal candies. A great place to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Best Spots for a Drink in Salem

While there are many places to get a drink in Salem, check out the locally-made brews to really get a sense of the area.

Notch Brewery & Tap Room

283 Derby Street, Salem, MA 01970

Launched in 2010, Notch first opened with a focus solely on session beers. What’s a session beer? Click here to learn more. I first came across Notch over the summer when my husband was searching for a drinkable IPA with less than 6% ABV (something that is surprisingly hard to come by). Notch’s “Left of the Dial” IPA hit the spot, and has been a favorite in our home ever since. I was excited to visit the brewery, and it did not disappoint. They offer an outdoor beer garden that is open year around (bring it, snow) overlooking the South River basin. And their taproom offers three different rooms for seating, along with a Skee Ball machine.

They only offer full pours (no flights), and they generally have between 8-14 beers on tap at all times. You can also purchase cans and growlers to enjoy off-premise. In addition to the Left of the Dial, I enjoyed the “Slanted & Enchanted’ hoppy lager and “The Standard” Czech Pils. They also offer Radlers (pale ale with sparkling lemonade or sparkling grapefruit juice), and a variety of bar snacks including giant soft pretzels.

Far From The Tree Hard Cider

108 Jackson Street, Salem, MA 01970

Flight of ciders at Far From The Tree Cider House.

I first heard of Far From The Tree when my Instagram feed started lighting up with photos of a fluorescent green hard cider concoction that I now know to be called Ectoplasm. (Ghostbusters fans who grew up in the 80’s may remember Hi-C’s Ecto Cooler drink featuring Slimer? Yup.) Ectoplasm is only available in limited release during the month of October, and is made with green pepper, jalapenos and kiwi. While described as a sweet cider, I found the sweetness to be offset by the notes of green pepper – and you also get a nice slow burn aftertaste from the jalapenos. I can see why this one has a cult following!

Other highlights include the very dry Maca-chusetts, made 100% from McIntosh apples, and the Perry, which is a semi-sweet cider made from McIntosh apples and Bartlett pears. I also had the chance to sample Vlad, an off-dry sour cider, which they said was the first release in the cider house’s “Frightful Fermentation” series. A combination of cranberry wine and apple cider stepped with peppercorns, it definitely had a bit of pucker with the notes of the peppercorn shining through. The taproom offers a bar, communal tables and an outdoor beer garden area. They don’t serve food, but allow it to be brought in. Located a bit off the beaten track, there is a small parking lot if you drive, or may be easier just to Uber.

Best Places to Stay in Salem

There are quite a few lodging options in Salem, including a mix of full service hotels and B&Bs. While I’ve not personally experienced any of the B&B options in town, based on their great reviews, the Morning Glory B&B and the Amelia Payson House are two that stand out. In terms of full service hotels, Salem’s hotel offerings are pretty distinct in the type of traveler they appeal to.

Salem Waterfront Hotel & Suites

225 Derby Street, Salem, MA 01970

If you like to be close to the water, the Salem Waterfront Hotel & Suites is a perfect spot. Situated in the historic Waterfront area of Pickering Wharf, the hotel is just steps away from many of Salem’s best restaurants, including Finz and Sea Level Oyster Bar. A classic New England hotel, it offers a tasteful nautical feel, which is fitting for its location on Salem Harbor. The 86-room hotel offers an indoor heated pool and complimentary parking for overnight guests. Of note, while the hotel is located within the Waterfront district, it does not offer direct water views. That said, it’s still a fantastic location to enjoy Salem’s waterfront and downtown attractions.

The historic Hawthorne Hotel, Salem.

The Hawthorne Hotel

18 Washington Square West, Salem, MA 01970

If you enjoy historic hotels, you’ll want to check out The Hawthorne Hotel which first opened in 1925. The 93-room hotel is a member of the Historic Hotels of America, and is centrally located, abutting the Salem Common. It’s just a minute’s walk from the Peabody Essex Museum and the Salem Witch Museum, and is a great location for exploring the city. The hotel offers complimentary tours at 4:30pm Tuesday-Friday, which start in the lobby and explore the hotel’s history. Pet-friendly, the hotel offers a welcoming lobby, two restaurants, a bar and complimentary on-site parking. (Parking is offered on a first-come, first-served basis, and you may be directed to one of the nearby parking garages during the busy fall months.)

The Hotel Salem

209 Essex Street, Salem, MA 01970

The newest hotel in town, The Hotel Salem offers mid-century modern decor in a vibrant setting. The 44-room hotel is bright and colorful, with contemporary art on the walls. With an modern industrial feel, the hotel offers loft-like suites as well as what it dubs “micro-rooms” for the budget conscious. One of the most noteworthy features of the hotel is its seasonal rooftop restaurant, aptly named The Roof, which offers sweeping views of Salem with a menu of yummy tacos, ceviche, cocktails and more. The hotel is located on Salem’s pedestrian mall, which is a great location – but does not allow for parking. Guests of the hotel who drive will need to park at one of the garages in town.

The Merchant

148 Washington Street, Salem, MA 01970

An upscale boutique hotel with only 11 rooms, The Merchant is perfect for those looking for a more intimate experience. Each room offers a gas fireplace, along with Apple TV and complimentary iPad rental. Daily breakfast consists of a mix of sweet and savory small plates. A 200-year old property, the hotel interior design “drew inspiration from the property’s original wealthy sea merchant owner and the town’s shipping port history.” The Merchant is decorated in bold colors including deep blues, reds and purples. The hotel does not have an elevator, which is something to keep in mind for anyone with mobility difficulties. The hotel offers complimentary off-site parking at Riley Plaza (just a couple minutes away). Or if you can pay $25 per night for one of the six first-come, first served parking spots at the hotel.

What are your favorite places in Salem? Anything I missed? Let me know in the comments below!

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  1. Good overview of Salem.Consider a mention of Salem Willows.Also check your dates of the Witch Trials.